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DIY Faux Quartz Countertops with Epoxy

Here's our color recipe in the video:

  • Glitter
    • Silver
    • Black

Step #1: Prep For Epoxy

For this recipe, we're starting with a sheet of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) that’s been painted with two coats of our White Undercoat and with ⅛” roundover top edges to help the epoxy flow neatly over those edges. Mix at least 3 ounces per square foot of either our Stone Coat Countertops Epoxy or, for greater UV resistance, our Art Coat. We're going to mix the epoxy for at least two minutes using a drill, making sure to mix the epoxy on the bottom and sides of the mixing bucket. Once the epoxy is thoroughly mixed, we'll add our Silver and Black Glitter Additives and mix again.

Step #1: Prep for epoxy. Start with MDF painted with White Undercoat. Mix 3 oz/sq ft of Stone Coat Countertops or Art Coat epoxy.

Step #2: Pour & Trowel

Pour the mixed epoxy down the center of the project and scrape the epoxy off of the edges of the bucket into the epoxy puddle. Mix this puddle around a bit with our ⅛” Square Notch Trowel. This will ensure that the epoxy is thoroughly mixed. Trowel the epoxy puddle, working from the center outwards, until the epoxy nearly reaches the edge of the project. Once the whole surface is covered, then it’s time to gently trowel the epoxy over the edge. Waste not, want not.

Step #2: Pour and trowel. Pour epoxy down the center, scrape edges, mix with ⅛” Square Notch Trowel.

Step #3: Chopping The Surface

De-shed a fresh 2” Chop Brush by lighty pulling on the bristles to see if any loose ones fall off of the brush. Then prime the brush with some leftover epoxy in the mixing bucket. This will ensure that no epoxy is pulled off of the project when you begin chopping. In a sharp, random motion; repeatedly smack the heel of the brush into the surface, being sure to overlap the edges of the project. Chopping with the brush naturally spreads the epoxy to hide any of those subtle lines left by the trowel. It also mixes the epoxy one final time to ensure complete curing. So the epoxy is actually mixed four times, in total: once before the additives, once after, once more with the trowel, and one final time with the brush. Once the surface is chopped, run the brush down the length of the edges to promote adhesion to those edges.

Step #3: Surface chopping. Prime a 2” Chop Brush with leftover epoxy, randomly smack the surface for even spread.

Step #4: Heat Gun & Torch

At this point, the glitter will lay in a natural pattern that shines like quartz. Step back and examine your color coat to look for loose bristles. These can easily be removed by breaking a mixing stick and grabbing the bristle as if using chopsticks. Any other details that stand out or don't look right can be moved and melded around with a heat gun--or even a strong hair dryer. Torch the entire surface of the project by sweeping a propane torch a few inches from the surface to pop any bubbles and help along the natural flow of the epoxy before leaving it to dry.

Step #4: Heat gun and torch. Check for loose bristles, remove with a broken mixing stick. Adjust details with a heat gun or hair dryer.

Step #5: Clear Coat Or Ultimate Top Coat

Once the color coat is all dry, your project is ready for either the clear coat or the Ultimate Top Coat for Ultimate scratch resistance and a natural sheen level! Click the button below to learn how. You got this!

Step #5: Opt for the clear coat or Ultimate Top Coat after the color coat dries, ensuring ultimate scratch resistance and a natural sheen.